Gentleman: A double-breasted please!
Historically speaking, the double-breasted suit is considered a replacement for the three-piece men's suit.
Because of the double buttons and the elegantly rising lapel, the double-breasted suit unites a three-piece suit in a two-piece clothing item.
Thus, the double-breasted suit is an elegant and, in most cases, a body flattering alternative to the widespread single-breasted.
As a "suit of choice" the double-breasted version is to be found in many closets of true style icons. Beginning with MJ's style icon Cary Grant to legends such as Fred Astaire or the particularly great Gianni Agnelli.
Gianni Agnelli, together with the Duke of Windsor, interpreted the double-breasted suit very casually and with a lot of Sprezzatura, by buttoning the 6 on 2 always as a 6 on 1. The same was always seen with Sergio Loro Piana, who died much too soon.
You see, you are among the greatest with a doubled-breasted suit!
The Silhouette of a Double-breasted
In spite of the increasing popularity of the double-breasted piece, one misconception stays: a double-breasted suit is only something for more corpulent bodies or tall men.
In reality, your own body silhouette or body size is by no means decisive.
With Michael Jondral, the motto is: "The only crucial arguments are the skillful cutting of the tailor and the personal wish of the client!"
Besides, Fred Astair is the proof that a man can be dressed perfectly in a double-breasted suit even with a smaller body size!
This opinion is also shared by the famous Menswear journalist Bruce G. Boyer. According to him, no gentleman needs to fear the double-breasted suit.
"If you like it, wear it!" - says Boyer about the double-breasted suit in his essay "Double Indemnity".
The only restriction - if one wants to call it - refers to the quality of the cutting. If the cut is not chosen properly, this can quickly lead to a visual catastrophe!
6 on 2 or 6 on 1
What distinguishes the double-breasted suits and jackets available on the market is not only the cutting but the number of buttons or the number of "functioning buttons".
The most common button design is the so-called 6 on 2, where the middle outer button of the jacket is closed.
The second most common is the so-called 6 on 1, also with 6 buttons, but the lower outer button is closed. The result is rather casual and tends to extend the silhouette.
Although the 6 on 1 is not considered sartorial and is rather reminiscent of the 80s, some renowned tailors have become almost worldwide known for this silhouette, especially Cifonelli from Paris!
If you are not sure which jacket fits best for you, a 6 on 2 also offers the possibility to be buttoned as a 6 on 1. This, by the way, is the art of the sartorial space and lets you enter the circle of some famous gentleman!
A Sartorial Anecdote on the Side
Many years ago, Michael Jondral came together with the great founder of Kiton Ciro Paone, and not only closed his double-breasted jacket, but for the first time, also the inner button of his double-breasted jacket.
What happened? Don Ciro hit his fingers! In Neapolitan style, you should never close the inside button! It is not formally necessary and it would only destroy the skillful nonchalance, the so-often-discussed "Sprezzatura".
Such a faux pas has never happened again to Michael Jondral - and from now on will also never happen to you.
The Double-breasted Suit by Cesare Attolini
For the double-breasted suit by Cesare Attolini, the lapel " Largo" is a characteristic feature.
The wider lapel of the double-breasted suit was not only used by a Gianni Agnelli but later, also by his grandson Lapo Elkann and now also by Michael Jondral.
Why is the "Largo" Lapel so special?
The Largo Lapel rolls elegantly and almost meets the shoulders with its lapel tip. This creates the impression of a stretched silhouette, which has a particularly masculine effect.
Because of the way of cutting and the particularly soft processing, the Attolini jacket plays with a 6 on 1-1 / 2. This enables you to close the jacket more correctly on the middle, or as preferred by Michael Jondral, on the lower button.
The Neapolitan nonchalance is underlined by 2 attached pockets and the double-edges.
For processing the special edges, which are indispensable in sartorial circles, Michael Jondral chooses the buttonhole yarn " Filo 30" - proven to be a subtle eye-catcher.
Double-breasted Suit by Orazio Luciano
Also at Orazio Luciano, the larger lapel is characteristic of the double-breasted suit, as well as it is characteristic of the overall appearance of the silhouette.
In Luciano's Neapolitan home the wider lapel is called " Revers Bombato" and ensures a successful performance.
What is so special about the Revers Bombato and the Orazio Silhouette?
The reverse bombato is slightly shorter in a 6 on 2 double breasted version and does not kiss the shoulders in the tip quite so strongly.
The concave cut is somewhat more reserved and the crochet seam on the lapel is slightly put higher by the diligent tailors. Furthermore, the double-breasted suit by Orazio features the narrower arrangement of the 6 buttons.
Thus, the Orazio Luciano double-breasted suit enables a highly modern and slim silhouette.
Even the former Italian Brioni representative describes the Orazio Luciano double-breasted version as the most modern interpretation of the popular classic.
For Michael Jondral, " Filo 30" is also naturally used for the hand-edges and for the clearer 6 on 2, Michael Jondral prefers flap pockets with ticketpocket!
We wish you a lot of fun while rediscovering a true classic!