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Countless diligent tailors, who are responsible for the incomparable fit and character of every suit, jacket, pair of trousers or shirt, work with all their blood, sweat and tears for many hours of hard manual work for the perfect sartorial pieces.
But which philosophy and, above all, which group of people is behind these industrious tailors and behind these individual manufactories?
In order to provide you with valuable insights into the sartorial world, we will address these questions within the new section "Behind The Brand".
In our first article, we are talking about no other than Orazio Luciano.
The success story dates back to the year 1992. After his long-standing work as the first cutter at Kiton, Orazio Luciano, whose brand is named after him, decided to set up his own business. Up until now, the manufactory of Orazio Luciano is situated in the area of San Giovanni a Teduccio, in the southwestern part of Naples, just a few meters from the Gulf of Naples.
At the beginning, only small groups of customers were supplied as the product should always have priority. From the very first day on, it was not only the quality which was know about the products, but above all, it was the ease of those suits and jackets, which were entirely hand-made.
After the modest beginnings, the son Pino Luciano joined the team and was decisively involved in redesigning the manufacturing process. Thus, not only a Ready-To-Wear collection was introduced, but the company also expanded to Asia, one of the larger markets.
The Asian market not only showed an increasing demand for the Italian sartorial product in the 1990s, but also demanded the global expansion of Orazio Luciano.
Inspired by the accompanying trips abroad, Pino Luciano modernized the classic jackets during this period, making them more slim and lighter. The typical jackets were created without a shoulder pad and a mixture of vintage fabrics.
The full name "Orazio Luciano - La Vera Sartoria Napoletana" translates as "The Real Neapolitan Tailoring". So it is self-evident that the suits and jackets always have to fit perfectly.
It is an honest product which scores with a wonderful fit as well as extreme softness and lightness. Like other well-known manufactures, Orazio Luciano also relies on the classic Neapolitan art of tailoring.
Due to the high-cut armholes and the extremely easy processing without padding, a feeling of lightness is created from the very first moment. The high armhole and the soft shoulder construction let the suit fit perfectly - an effect that you will feel right at the first try!
From the cutting to the last ironing process, the tailors in the small manufactory of Orazio Luciano need more than 25 hours for the production of one single suit.
As with the other large manufactories, an Orazio Luciano jacket / suit fits like as a second skin. However, this is ensured by the soft processing and not by a fulminant inner lining, as it is practiced at e.g. the Saville Row. With an Orazio Luciano jacket, you will not find any pads but only the fabric and the horsehair insert.
The classic Orazio Luciano silhouette is best described as "consistently classic with a touch of modernity“. After all, Orazio Luciano is known for the modern interpretation of the Neapolitan section.
You can see the slant to modernity through the narrow and close-to-the-skin cut, but not through a too short jacket! With the Orazio Luciano silhouette, the jacket is rather designed to be slightly longer, which ensures a balanced proportion of the wearer.
The masculine silhouette is skillfully worked out. The shoulders are perfectly accentuated, the waist flatteringly emphasized and the pants brought to a perfect length. Typical is the 10 cm wide lapel, which together with the padded shoulders provides for a confident but "soft" appearance.
Particularly noteworthy is the broad design spectrum, which is available in the Made To Measure range. Since the cutting is carried out exclusively by hand, there are no limits to the customer at the MTM.
You have the possibility to access infinitely many variations of the upper sartorial tailoring art. No matter whether you want to make a sharp change, 3 roll 2 jackets, 6 on 2 double-breasted jackets or 6 on 1 double-breasted jackets, cocktail sleeves, safari jackets - all options which you get at a very attractive price / performance ratio in perfectly handmade Made in Italy.
The average age of tailors in the manufactory is relatively low. A majority of tailors are around 30-35 years old. On top, there are experienced tailors, who together form a wonderful team. This also ensures the future of the sartorial guild.
You will also recognize this charm when you visit the "Sartoria". This is neither a high-performance manufactory, as for example Kiton is, nor is it a super-small Sartoria guided by a single master cutter. The Sartoria can be rather regarded as a hybrid of both.
Up to 30 hard-working tailors work in this charming microcosm, creating the sartorial masterpieces that we all love and cherish. The individual work steps are rigorously handmade in individual stations. From cutting to sewing the pockets, the lapel cut, the hand-sewn buttonholes, the fitting of the sleeves and, of course, the fitting of the lining.
Thus, the charm of a handmade product is "married" with the efficiency of a well-organized enterprise, which allows to meet countless customer requests and to manage them in a reasonable time frame - grandissimo!